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PATENT TRANSFER SYSTEM 



MEASURING AND DELINEATING 

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TRANSFER AND ELLIPSIS. ^ V. 



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AUTHOR OP THE SPHERICAL SYSTEM AND ELASTIC SQUARE, 
AND PUBLISHER OF THE QUARTERLY A-LA-MODE, 

Entered according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1839. 



PHILADELPHIA : 

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TRANSFER SYSTEM. 



Measuring by Application of the Transfer. 

Commence with the coat buttoned close, and 
with the collar rolled under, as represented in figure 
1. Then take the length from the neck joint at 
A to E, and to F. Then the width of the back 
from B to C, and A to C. 

Note. — The back may be formed to suit the fashion, 
higher, lower, wider or narrower than this point. The 
back should not be cut wider than the extent of the side 
under the arm. The back may be formed without these 
measures, by the Ellipsis. 

Measure loosely around the shoulder, and if 14, 
15, 18, or any other number, then set the front 
and bottom of the instrument to 4, 5, 8, and so on 
to correspond. 

Note. — The changing 1 at the front and bottom branches, 
is for different sizes, so that the space from E to C, (fig- 
ure 3,) would be sufficiently large. In extreme high or 
low shoulders it may be well to take a measure from A, 
(figure 1,) round the shoulder up to A, and then take 
one fourth of this and apply from the upper screw at 
the bottom and front of the shoulder, up to the upper 
screw at 1; this will bring the lower branch up towards 
1 on the upright branch, and cause the application to be 
more easy — this may carry it from the scye number up 
two or four numbers. Then put the number as it is, 
say 14 to 16 or 17, as it may be. 

Now put the instrumentymde^and in front of 



the shoulder, as see figures 2 and 3, the wider 
part, to the muscles A, B; while the front is to E, 
inside of the shoulder. Let the arm drop to hold 
the instrument in its place. The right hand may- 
be carried across to the end at 3. Next, smooth 
the first branch on the breast, in the middle of the 
shoulder, and on the back to A and B. If the 
edge does not reach as high as the point for the 
collar seam, or should it be higher, then unscrew 
the plate at I, front of shoulder, and raise or lower 
it to the point- Or the instrument may be turned a 
little under the arm. 

The first branch being placed as before stated, 
as seen in fig. 1, 2, and 4, the right hand holding at 
K, while the left is placed on at J, pressing gently- 
down until the right is being released from K to 
take the second branch and place it in the left. 
With the right smooth the main branch under the 
shoulder, also the second and third, and then hold 
branch third with the right, while you name the 
measure that some one may put the numbers down: 
the first being previously taken down at A and B, 
and now the length of the second at the right and 
left side, and the number the right side came to on 
branch 1st. The measures on figure 1st are set 
down thus: — Branch 1st, 5, 5; Branch 2d, 6, 6, 
to 8, lacking i number, or say 7| at N; Branch 
3d is 5, the lower edge not being noticed. 

With the right hand bring the pivot measure 
from the front into the hollow or bottom of the 
waist at the back seam as seen in fig. 1, 2, 3, or 4. 
In 2 it is carried down around a point at 2, while 
in 3 it is directly from the pivot. 

Note. — The measure to D is requisite only where the 
waist is very hollow. The measure may be carried 



around point 1, (see fig. 2,) over the shoulder to C, as 
in fig 1 . 4, where the point of the back scye comes. This 
will cause, in the most of cases, the point to be cut J or 
^ inch short at C. Instead of the long* pivot measure a 
short one may be used as represented in fig 1 . 3. The 
pivot measure may be applied to F for uniforms or over 
coats, the same as the short one in fig*. S. The breast 
measure may be dispensed with by measuring" across to G. 
The length of the lappel may be obtained by a measure 
to H, as represented. Measures may be taken to any part 
of the body by the pivot measure. To fasten on the 
instrument, a tape may go from branch 1st around the 
right shoulder back to branch 3d, yet I would not 
recommend any fastening. 

Measure around the breast and waist in the 
usual manner. 

Measure the length of the sleeve from B to C, 
then to the elbow and the hand. Measure around 
the hand and elbow. 



To draft by the Transfer and Ellipsis. 

The BACK is formed by the Ellipsis and inches, 
as see No. 9 on the left of the map. Draw a line 
at the edge of the cloth from A to C. Put the 
straight edge of the Ellipsis on A B, its D point 
to A; then angle 7 3-8 to E; 9 3-8 to G; D, 12f . 
Then apply from F to G the width of the back, as 
taken from the person, also from A to G may be 
applied. From A to B and C, the length of the 
waist and skirt. Then from B strike angle 8 with 
Ellipsis. From C angle 7|. Width of Back at 
the top, back, scye, and hip as fashion may re- 
quire. The most common width is given in inches 
in the form. K line is parallel with B C, except 
for a frock or overcoat; then it is with A D, as re- 
presented in form H, I and J. I may be down to 



D, and J sweep by half length of the side seam, 
or lay round on the Ellipsis. 

Note. — The back may be any form, the scye lower or 
higher, the top and bottom wider or narrower, and the 
forepart will be found to conform to it. 

The FOREPART.— See the small Diagram, 
where H represents the top of the cloth, with the 
back laid on to the numbers on the Transfer, say 
to 6. Then mark at the bottom, of the scye, J. 
Now put on the back to the number measured, say 
4, and at the same time let the edge of the back at 
I come to the edge of the cloth. 

Note. — This is only to get the forepart out near the 
top and side of the cloth. It is preparing to draft. The 
forepart may be taken out at the top or bottom of the 
cloth. 

Mark at E to the bottom of the scye, and from 
the front angle towards B, (see large form.) Then 
put the back under branch first to 6 at the top and 
the bottom, if that number be the measure. If it 
be 5, 7, 9, or any other measure at the top or bot- 
tom, place the back to the same numbers, and mark 
at the edge of the back for shoulder seam, say at 
H and I. Mark on the back at N from 1 along 
the lower edge of Transfer, and a perpendicular 
mark at 7|, 8, 9, or 0, if the edge of second 
branch come to any of these numbers, as shown 
at N, fig. 1st. Bring in the point at H, i or h. 
inch to the measure taken for that purpose to the 
back scye. D may now be formed to E. Next 
bring the back around and down under second 
branch, (as shown by large and small Diagram, 
No. 2.) The mark and point at N being put to 
the length of the measure on second branch, and 
if it is 5 or 6 at the N side, put the back to the 



point, and then see that the opposite side is made 
to come to the measured number. Mark the upper 
point of the side seam at J, mark on the counter 
at K. Now turn the back in to L, pivot at J, 
until it meets the amount of the pivot measure. 
Mark at M for the bottom of the side seam, (No. 
4 represents this position of the back.) Next turn 
out the back to O, which is half the space between 
K and L; this is No. 3. Now carry the back at 
G out or in to the measure. If the measure is 4| 
or 5, carry it out to that number, (as shown by the 
dash line at G, and then mark at the edge of back 
at P. Put the edge of back to P and M, and 
mark at Q. 

iVb/e.— If you have taken pivot measures to B, C, D, 
E, small form, now apply them, and remove the Trans- 
fer from the cloth. 

Form the side seam from J to P, Q, and M. 
Raise the upper point two seams, say half an inch, 
and if to come close up under the «cye raise that 
part as much, Form the scye as represented, yet 
the point at A may be carried farther forward with- 
out injury. 

Form the shoulder seam from H to I, and when 
very hollow below I, \ or \ inch may be taken 
out. 

The back being as in No. 3, apply \ the breast 
measure from G to R. Notice the space from G 
to S, and \ of this apply from R to T. Thus if 
10, 11, 12, or 13, then \ would be 25* 2| 3, or 
3| inches. The same is applied out to G, to 
sweep the neck, G being \\ inch below the back 
seam and swept from this point, pivot at S; (see 
small Diagram.) Sweep the front of the breast 
pivot near where No. 2, 3 and 4 come to a point. 



8 

With the pivot at the top of shoulder seam, sweep 
the bottom of breast from the bottom of the side 
seam. From S to the hip at E is | the circum- 
ference of the waist. Apply half the circumference 
of the waist from L to E and D; D being l£ inch 
above the sphere. From D scribe through E. 
Sweep by * the waist from M to E. 

Note. — The form of the waist depends on length and 
size of waist, prominence of hip and front. Therefore 
it will be best to pay some attention to the measures at 
the hip and in front. The curve of the waist, upper 
and lower part of the scye may be formed by the Ellip- 
sis, giving what curve fancy may wish. 

The height of the neck in front is governed by 
the collar and fashion. Let the end of the collar 
come out to the front sweep, or as far as required 
with the bottom resting on the curve, and the turn 
row at the top of the back, while the neck is form- 
ed by the edge of the collar. If a short break is 
required, let the top of back extend | or 1 inch 
above the turn row, and form the front as before 
stated. 

The SLEEVE.— Measure from H around the 
scye, and whatever is the amount, (say 13, 15 or 
18,) then see in the table on the Ellipsis, at the 
bottom of that column the size of upper sleeve 
head, say 7§, 9, and 10J. Now if 8 be the size, 
then find that number between A A, and B B, on 
the circle of the Ellipsis. Put these numbers or 
points on the base line A A, (see No. 7 in minia- 
ture.) Then chalk from 8, between C C, on Ellip- 
sis around to A, (No. 7,) which forms the upper 
sleeve head. Pursue the same in all cases. If 
the scye is hollowed much at D, (No. 6,) then add 
i inch between B and C. Also, if the back is ex- 



9 

tremely wide, say all over | and 1-8 of the space 
from S to G, (over the blade,) then all over this 
amount will raise the front from 8 to C, (No. 7.) 
All short of this amount, drop below the number. 
This is the same as taking off or adding at A. 

Under Side. — (See No. 8.) In the table it 
will be seen that 14 is the full measure, and 7 the 
half, which is for the under sleeve, and is marked 
on the same cloth with the upper, by putting 7 
(see Ellipsis,) between B B, to C; or if the point 
has been raised to E, then to this point; while 7, 
(between C C,) is put on the circle at E, (see No. 
8.) Now chalk D around from C to E. Now 
chalk D as dotted, (to opposite A.) 

Note, — The dotted form represents E raised § inch, 
and the Ellipsis turned one number, so as to make the 
tjurve more sudden. The length is applied as in other 
cases, deducting 1 the width of back and applying" the re- 
mainder from A to 19, 30 and 32, if the cuff is cut on. 
(See No. 6.) 

Put the Ellipsis on, D to 19, and strike to 32, 
angle 12| Apply the measures across at 4 and 
5f. Shape the sleeve to the measures. 

SKIRT DRESS COAT.— (See No. 5,) A A 
is the base. At the top of the skirt put on the El- 
lipsis and run B angle 7|. Round a in 1 inch. 
Then apply half the waist, lacking the width of 
back, out to C; adding 1 inch for fulness, half of 
this to B. D is an angle of 8 7-8. By the length of 
the back skirt get length of skirt. E is an angle 
of 7i The strap is 1 inch or more wide. G is 
rounded to fashion. 

Note. — Proportions to form B is angle 7§, marked b. 
(see Ellipsis, spring" line.) One requiring" less spring" 
is 7£, marked a. If the skirt is to be taken out on the 



10 

opposite side of the cloth, then use the numbers 8 J, 8f, 
and 8J. 

SKIRT, FROCK.— (See No. 5.) F is angle 
7| or 7*. d angle 8|. The waist measure, (lack- 
ing the width of back apply out on F to c. El- 
lipsis on F, c is an angle of 6 lacking J (which 
is near C on the Ellipsis.) The hollow may be 
had by the Ellipsis, or sweeping by 2-3 of waist 
or space from A to C. The bottom e, is parallel 
with the top. 

After forming J, P, Q, M, as for a coat, (see 
large form,) then raise the point between J and C 
i | and even an inch in largest forms to C, (see 
No. 10.) The dotted curve represents an addition 
of i inch, M and C being raised when made up, 
the point at J will fit smoother, and from M to E 
will be more free. The shoulder be varied | inch 
as dotted. The dash lines outside of M represent 
a round jacket. Raise the scye £ inch more than 
on bottom of the over coat. 

OVER COAT, has less spring and hollow, say 
c angle 6 J. The back and forepart will be govern- 
ed by fashion. The size and correct height of 
neck will be governed by the pivot measures to F, 
(fig. 3,) and applied as to B in the small draft. 

The COLLARS, are always given with the 
fashions. Yet one is given in inches, alphabetic- 
ally arranged. (See T, left corner of map.) 

Remarks. — Goods that are spongy and elastic 
it will be best to cut the shoulder and side short of 
the measures. Also, when taken over a loose 
coat, cut all numbers short. If of a contrary quali- 
ty of goods, such as bombazine, then cut one or 
two numbers longer. The same for over coats, 
(see No. 10.) 



V 



11 

Caution. — See that the inner and outer edges 
in the application of the Transfer are the same, 
not one tighter than another; and be particularly 
careful not to pull the second branch up more 
than to be smooth, and if the coat measured over 
prevents the instrument from being placqd close up 
to the shoulder, raise the bottom of the scye i inch. 
The measure taken from A round the shoulder up 
to A, and applied from the bottom of the scye at 
J up to the top of the back at 6 on Transfer, (see 
small draft,) will assist in determining if the scye 
be high enough. Yet this measure will not do to 
rely upon, it is a partial guide. 



TERMS 



The Spherical and Transfer System, 




SPHERICAL. 



$15 



$20 



$25 



{ 
{ 



Inhabitants of places averaging* 



TRANSFER. 



100 to 
1,000 

10,000 

24,000 

40,000 

75,000 
110,000 
150,000 
190,000 
240,000 
290,000 
330,000 



500 

5,000 

15,000 

35,000 

60,000 

90,000 

130,000 

170,000 

220,000 

270,000 

320,000 

360,000 



$25 00 
30 00 
35 00 
40 00 
45 00 
50 00 
55 00 
60 00 
65 00 
70 00 
75 00 
80 00 



Payments may be made in instalments, if ap- 
proved securities are given. 






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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




014 082 777 



